A New Orleans Memory August 22, 2009
Posted by millyonair in New Orleans, Uncategorized.Tags: architecture, Art, Culture, Life, New Orleans, Thoughts
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This Friday will the be the fourth anniversary of the day I fled my home in balmy, beautiful New Orleans- just hours ahead of Katrina’s devastating assault. In honor of this day and the city that I love, I offer my fellow New Orleanians (and the world) a remembrance, a thin sliver of life before the storm. A landmark that is no more: The Blue Plate Mayonnaise sign.
The Blue Plate Mayonnaise factory was located on Jefferson Davis Parkway in a neighborhood called Gert Town (according Wikipedia, where I also got this picture). I never knew anything about Gert Town, or that when I passed the factory at night, spellbound by the towering blue-bulbed letters, I was passing through such a place. All I could do was marvel at the beauty of that sign.
Why was the sign so beautiful? The answer to that question is a bit of a mystery. Even though I buy Blue Plate mayonnaise (they still make it – in Tennessee) and wouldn’t dress a sandwich in anything less, the sign’s power wasn’t as an icon of quality. It was more than that- a little twinkle in the city’s eye.
It was old-fashioned looking, proud and industrial in that first-half-of-the-twentieth-century kind of way. The letters complimented the building’s art-deco architecture, but the sign’s appeal transcended merely being retro or quaint; there was something downright magical about it. If I passed it during the day, I regretted the very sun in the heavens for darkening the letters and revealing the scaffold to which they were secured. Sometimes, I felt myself drawn down the parkway at night, just to see it. Against the heavy, wet-velvet sky, the letters hovered, luminous, beaming down benevolent blue light onto the dark city streets. In a car full of people, all conversation would suddenly come to a stop as the car passed the sign, and invariably there was at least one wistful sigh as each passenger was momentarily enchanted. It was a New Orleans icon, just as sacred to us as any grottoed Virgin or Joan of Arc.
After the storm, the sign went dark. Even after power was restored and the city began flickering back to life, The Blue Plate Mayonnaise plant stayed closed and the benign blue beacon abandoned us. The hurricane left the sign intact, but the letters were like bones hoisted into the sky on pickets. I asked the friends who moved back home for updates- for any news about the sign- but there were no reports of illumination. I have searched online and can not find a single image of the sign at night. Maybe the divine cannot be digitized. I have read that there are plans to build an apartment complex in the old factory, thereby preserving “the historic Art Deco landmark and its neon Blue Plate sign.” The blurb doesn’t say whether the building’s new owners plan to kindle the gasses within the bulbs and set the sign ablaze once more, but I really hope that one day it glows again.
The Storm May 27, 2009
Posted by millyonair in New Orleans.Tags: America, Culture
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In New Orleans, there is a name that no one says out loud. Just like no one names their children ‘Lucifer’ or ‘Judas’, no one mentions the name of the angry monster that clawed at the city’s face, that washed over her like a broken promise, dragged her under the water and held her there. They refer to it as The Storm, or, if absolutely necessary for clarification, The Hurricane. but nobody- nobody- calls it Katrina.
At first, I assumed it was a kind of camaraderie, a we-all-left-we-all-came-back-we-all-know-what-storm-I-mean way of separating the pansies from the pirates, the wheat from the chaff, the locals from the tourists. But I suspect there is more to it. I once read that African villagers will refer to a snake as “a string” after sunset, so as not to summon the serpents. In a city as casually superstitious as New Orleans, the declination to conjure strikes closer to the bone, a tacit and commonly understood agreement. The name is a black cat, a shattered mirror, a ladder we won’t walk beneath.
But even without the superstitious element, to use the name within the city limits seems almost profane, callous at least, a raw reminder of so much sorrow. It is a dark name, all purply-black like a bruise. It rumbles like thunder on the tongue, foreboding and foul, blank as a boarded-up window, bloated as a corpse. It falls flat and dead from the lips of those who utter it, people sidestep the name on the buckling sidewalks and wait for the rain to wash it into the gutters along with the Bourbon Street trash.
In one of the many French Quarter trinket shops, my husband leafs through a photo book of The Storm’s devastation. Put it down, I want to scream. Don’t touch that! Wash your hands, cross yourself! It’s all I can do to resist slathering him in holy water from the St. Louis Cathedral, but he’s not the superstitious type. The woman behind the counter watches us,takes a drag off her cigarette and shakes her head. There are hurricane tours, I’ve seen the brochures. I cannot imagine anything more vulgar and morbid than creeping through the wreckage with a camera and a cocktail, gliding past the collapsed houses and gutted groceries in air-conditioned comfort.
In mere days another hurricane season will commence, and in the silence on this subejct is the collective finger-cross. No one, after all, wants to summon another Storm. A city below sea level faces heightened risks. And yet, with such risk comes a great gift; one that citizens of more secure cities may never know: uncertainty heightens one’s appreciaton of the Now. Tomorrow is a myth in New Orleans. There are only the bright colors and blaring sounds, the rich flavors and pungent aromas of Today. The floors, the streets, the piers are paved with minutes to be trodden over, danced across in naked feet.




